Peptides, Growth Factors, & Exosomes
At The Skin Company, we like to empower our clients with knowledge by sharing current and accurate information on topics related to your skin health. With so many buzz words in advertising it can be difficult to know what products are truly effective.
What are peptides, growth factors, and exosomes?
These skincare ingredients can be described using botanic terms:
Peptides – Seeds
Initiate cell repair signals
Growth Factors – Fertiliser
Stimulate cell growth and extracellular matrix production
Exosomes – Pollinator
Deliver signals between cells essential for regeneration
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What is a PEPTIDE?
Peptides are small molecules made up of short chains of amino acids naturally present in skin. Due to their small size and targeted action, peptides can access areas that most other active ingredients cannot.
Peptide serums can address a wide variety of concerns such as reducing the appearance of wrinkles, improving the skin barrier, reducing inflammation and promoting elasticity.
The exact benefit depends on the peptide in question:
Signal peptides (matrixyl)
o Mimic collagen breakdown fragments
o Stimulate fibroblasts, collagen I and collagen III
o Enhance the production of collagen and elastin
Carrier peptides (copper tri-peptide)
o Help vital ingredients get to their target sites
o Increase collagen production
Enzyme inhibitor peptides
o Inhibit the enzymes that breakdown collagen
Neuropeptides (Argireline)
o Block the release of neurotransmitters that relay muscle signals
o Act as a neuromodulator (like botox) to relax facial muscles
What to look for in a peptide product?
Pay attention to the type of peptide in the formula. Signal peptides and carrier peptides currently have the strongest research backing their anti-ageing effects with copper peptides being amongst the most well-known and extensively studied signal peptides.
Consider your specific goals. If your aim is to achieve firmer, more hydrated skin then look for a signalling peptide paired with moisturising ingredients like hyaluronic acid.
Who are peptide products for?
If you already use an antioxidant serum, a retinoid and a sunscreen, then a peptide serum is a good addition to enhance your anti-ageing routine. In general, peptides play more of an additive role, rather than an ingredient that will provide comprehensive benefits.
They can also offer a preventative effect. The longer you use peptides, the greater the benefit, including firmer, brighter skin with fewer fine lines and wrinkles.
Finally, peptide serums are a good option for those who cannot tolerate irritating ingredients such as retinoids as they offer a similar ability to stimulate collagen production- although to a lesser degree. But they don’t come with the risk of irritation, making them a good option for those with sensitive skin.
Peptide containing skincare and treatments we recommend:
Skin Better Science InterFuse Intensive Treatment LINES
o Cream with neuropeptides to relax facial muscles and expression lines
o Signal peptides alongside other nourishing ingredients to support collagen
PCA Pro Max
o Serum with four unique signal peptides to support collagen production, keratinocyte production and fibroblast proliferation (cell repair)
o Also contains growth factors
InnoAesthetics InnoTDS Hair Vital Solution
o Used for mesotherapy (multiple micro injections)
o Formulated for hair thinning to nourish the hair follicle, strengthen hair structure and extend the hair growth phase
o Contains copper tripeptides and acetyl tripeptides to target regeneration and compact follicle miniaturisation (process involved in hairloss)
FillMed NCTF Skin Booster
o Used for mesotherapy (multiple micro injections)
o Cross-linked hyaluronic acid with 59 active ingredients including amino acids and peptides to improve skin quality, hydration and radiance
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What are GROWTH FACTORS?
Growth factors are proteins naturally occurring in each and every one of our body cells. They play a vital role in regulating cellular growth, proliferation and differentiation under controlled conditions. They play an essential part in maintaining healthy skin structure and function.
Growth factors are not growth hormones. They are natural signalling molecules made by the skin cells that support skin renewal and cellular regeneration. These processes help repair skin damage resulting from ageing or environmental factors. They promote the formation of collagen and elastin to provide firmness and elasticity.
What is the benefit of growth factors in skincare products?
Cells in ageing skin make fewer growth factors than cells in youthful skin. One approach to support the level of skin rejuvenation is to regularly use skincare products with a high concentration of stable growth factors. Daily use of skincare products containing growth factors is known to reduce the visible signs of ageing, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity, to improve skin tone and texture. They facilitate skin rejuvenation by stimulating the skins natural repair process.
Mimetic growth factors, like those found in skincare, are lab created molecules mimicking the function of natural growth factors in the body. We can harness this function in growth factor serums offering a way to replenish what our skin is losing overtime. Skincare containing growth factors can also strengthen the skin barrier making it more resilient to environmental stresses like UV rays and pollution.
For people who can’t tolerate retinoids on their neck, chest or face, growth factors may be an alternative to support collagen and cell turnover. Growth factors can be used in conjunction with retinoids, and work well alongside vitamin C, tranexamic acid, arbutin, kojic acid and azelaic acid .
Do growth factors work?
Controlled clinical studies have shown that application of skin creams containing growth factors can:
Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles due to collagen synthesis
Improve the appearance of age spots and even out pigmentation
Reduce skin roughness
Improve skin texture and elasticity
Improve skin smoothness and tightness
There’s debate as to where the topically applied growth factors can penetrate the skin enough to be effective. Growth factors have a large molecular size that inhibits them from being adequately absorbed by the skin, however several clinical studies over the past 15 years have highlighted the benefits of topically applied growth factors showing improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, texture and discolouration.
Combination of growth factors with antioxidants (such as vitamin C) and peptides tend to show results sooner, typically within 4 to 8 weeks. It has been hypothesised that when growth factors are applied to the skin in high concentrations, a small fraction penetrates the skin and initiates a communication chain that stimulates collagen production. Growth factors used in conjunction with microneedling, laser resurfacing or injection are more effective than when used in creams alone.
Where do growth factors in skincare products come from?
Advances in biotechnology over the past decade have created multiple sources of growth factors. They can be derived from several different human cells grown in a laboratory (skin cells, bone marrow stem cells, fat stem cells), extracted from one’s blood (PRP- Platelet Rich Plasma), or bioengineered from non-human sources such as snails and some plants.
Fat stem cells are likely to produce growth factors that help the functioning of fat cells and bone marrow stem cells are likely to produce growth factors that improve the functioning of bone marrow. Consequently, ideal growth factors for the skin would be produced by fibroblasts (cells essential for wound healing and tissue repair). In a comparative study published in 2017, dermal growth factors outproduced growth factors from other kinds of human stem cells like fat cells as well as non-human sources of stem cells such as snails and plants.
While several topical skin products containing either a single growth factor or multiple growth factor are available, none yet have FDA approval. Most of the research on human growth factors for skin has looked primarily at the issue of wound healing and at short-term use. Further research is needed for the application of growth factors in cosmetics, especially regarding long-term risk or stability.
Growth factor containing skincare and treatments we recommend:
PCA Pro Max
o Serum with micro growth factor technology claiming to have improved penetration into the skin
o Also contains peptides
KeraFactor KeraLase Procedure
o KeraLase growth factor serum combined with our MOXI 1927nm laser to create micro channels in the scalp for absorption
o Contains 7 biosynthetic growth factors and proteins including copper tripeptide to treat hair thinning and scalp health
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What are EXOSOMES
Exosomes are little vesicles or pouches that contain information that allows cells to communicate with each other. Exosomes are like a cell’s text message containing data in the form of proteins, lipids, growth factors and RNA.
What are the benefits of exosomes for the skin?
Exosomes are used for their regenerative, and anti-inflammatory properties making them valuable in enhancing the skin’s natural repair processes. They improve hydration by enhancing the skin’s barrier function and help retain moisture and hydration levels.
Studies show that exosomes can trigger the production of new blood vessels, reduce inflammation and promote collagen synthesis. They help with diminishing fine lines, reducing pigmentation, smoothing and plumping the skin. There is also evidence that they can promote hair growth.
What are the applications of exosomes?
The molecular size of exosomes varies which dictates how the product can be applied to the skin for optimal absorption. Some exosome products will be available for standard topical application if the molecules are smaller, while larger molecular weight exosome products will require microneedling or fractionated ablative lasers to help deliver them into the skin.
Exosome application post procedure allows the exosomes to more effectively reach the target cells within the skin which in turn accelerates the healing process, reducing downtime and boosting collagen.
Where do exosomes in skincare products come from?
Exosomes are derived either from human sources (typically mesenchymal stem cells from the umbilical cords, amniotic fluid or placenta) or plant or laboratory derived.
At The Skin Company, we use non-human laboratory derived exosomes, typically administered with our microneedling and fractional ablative therapies to enhance treatment outcomes as well as speed recovery post procedure.
Exosome containing skincare and treatments we recommend:
INNO-Exoma Exo-Skin
o High concentration of synthetic exosome-like molecules
o Pairs perfectly with our microneedling treatments, or Alma Hybrid laser
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Book a consultation if you would like to discuss whether any of these treatments are suitable for you, or come into clinic to see our range of skincare products
Call: 09 200 4535